Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
